My Top 2023 Hikes Across England

Looking back at my favourite excursions across England in 2023.

As we’re into the final few days of the year, and with the weather rarely encouraging me out of the house that much, I thought it would be a great idea to cap off a fabulous year of walking by looking back at my favourite hikes of 2023. In their own way, every single hike I went on – both the ones I videoed and those I didn’t – have something special about them. In some cases that sine non qua might be a less than fun eventuality: such as the time I got lost in heavy rain on Coronation day, or the time the local farmer opened fire on me. [1] Memorable, yes, but man alive, not in the good way. Nevertheless, there were also some magical moments where I came across a location, or view, or just an experience which really made it all worthwhile. These then, are the hikes I’m going to really remember.

Hence to end this year on a really positive note, I am going to look back on those treks I loved the most in the past twelve months by sharing with you my Top 5 Hikes of 2023.

Number Five: Hiking Along the River Slea (18 mile route)

Hailing as I do from north Lincolnshire, the south of this county is an area I know less well, although I’ve often visited dear relatives in the area. Walking it though, was not really their thing, so I simply never experienced its highways and byways before. Consequently, I thought visiting this area would make the basis of a superb circular jaunt starting and ending in the small market town of Sleaford and then progressing in a clockwise loop through the fields and villages to the north.

In part, this outing was a great walk because the weather was kind, being late April. Springtime also meant there was lots of new growth and young animals to spot along the way. It was also a decent town and fields route, which in many ways acted as a precursor to the sort of route and experiences the Leicestershire Round would lead me along later in the year. Albeit, this time in a very quintessentially Lincolnshire mode of experience!

There was lots to see out in the fields, and the route benefitted from being relatively flat and easy walking. I also really enjoyed hiking back towards Sleaford once I’d left the fields behind – although as always some of the field entrances and roadways did make for a little bit of a challenge! A particular shout-out on this route to the section from 00:13:38 onward, heading to Ruskington, where there were some very interesting earthworks in place – which I assumed were for a new potato crop! I must get back to Sleaford this next year and do a route south of the town this time – perhaps on another lovely April day!

Number Four: The National Forest Way – Ticknall to Rosliston (19.7 mile route)

The National Forest Way was the second long distance path I tackled in 2023, and across the whole route there were undoubtably some ups and downs. Like, for example, the second leg which I had to try twice due to injury and terrible misdirection the first time around. However, it was on this third chunk of the route where I easily had the most fun. Not counting the river I had to wade through on the subsequent and final leg of my voyage!

Firstly, this hike started off in lovely Ticknall alongside its famous churches, and then after crossing some fields undergoing harvesting, I got to take a long walk alongside the Foremark Reservoir. This is a great location with both stunning views over the waters, and a brilliant series of woodlands to hike through. Water and trees – possibly my single favourite hiking experience! That element alone might have made this a standout walk, but it also took me across some lovely rolling Derby and Leicestershire countryside and forests, which made for some picturesque views and highly enjoyable trekking to boot. I was actually quite surprised how nice a diversion it was though passing through Conkers Forest park near Moira, given how urban the route to access them was. I’m not really a fan of constructed countryside experiences, but I’ll give this one a pass as I quite enjoyed the experience. Then there was the trek down and through Overseal and into Derbyshire, let alone the fabulous views along the riverbank to Netherseal. Overseal and Netherseal being too of my favourite amusingly named places I passed through too. Shame about the giant dog that tried to eat me around this point!

Okay though, the major reason this hike is on the list is because I got to visit an alpaca farm along the way. I hadn’t realised Charnwood Alpacas was on the route but as it slowly dawned on me what I was approaching, and that those black and white forms in the fields ahead weren’t cows and sheep I got very excited. Now, I did meet some alpacas at the start of the Forest Way near Beacon Hill, but nothing like in the same quantities – there were at least fifty here! I confess too that it took a lot of effort to pull myself away from visiting these friendly fuzzy fellows, but the path ahead was calling me by name, and so, somehow, I left them behind. Stay fluffy fellow camelids.

It wasn’t all alpaca encounters and lovely forests on this route – as at one point I got rather lost in a field, when the exit was hidden among the trees. I do believe I might have used some choice language about the signage at that point! Nevertheless, despite this blip, with a rollicking good bit of woodland near Rosliston to finish on, I felt the whole walk had been a major and worthwhile challenging accomplishment. It also took me through a region I knew very little about as a walker – something it shares with a number of walks on this list – which for me always makes for an exciting day out. I also recall when I finished, just under 20 miles of hiking, that while being understandably footsore, I was still rather full of energy. Was this due to the alpaca encounter – you decide!

Nevertheless, this was a grand day out accompanied by some fantastic weather, making it more than worthy of appearing in this list.

Number Three: Leicestershire Round – Foxton to Dunton Bassett (14 mile route)

The Leicestershire Round was the very first long distance pathway I’ve set out to walk in its entirety – made tempting by part of the route passing close to Llama HQ! It is somewhat difficult to pick out a singular part of the Round as experience as a whole was pretty epic. I was tempted to choose the second leg (Burrough Hill to Allexton) – not least of which for the haunting encounter along the way. While that leg was a, relatively, short walk for me and had incredibly beautiful scenery it just wasn’t as memorable as the fourth stage.

This day’s hiking began in scenic Foxton and then quickly progressed along the canal banks to the nearby famous locks. Undoubtably, a brilliant way to start, and one which put me in a good mood from the get-go. I confess I always adore walking along a waterway, shoreline or riverbank. Yet once I left the water behind the hike continued across some fantastic fields, and into some fascinating little villages along and then atop some seriously rolling countryside. I will always remember the sun and clouds playing overhead as I headed west out of Gumley, as an especially striking and life-affirming moment. As this was in July, the grasses were at their most brilliant and fields the most laden with crops. If ever I was walking through a living, breathing, working, agricultural landscape this year – it was on this hike.

This sort of experience underlies why I strap on my boots and send myself out across the fields!

Okay, so the section around Fleckney wasn’t great – but then I did get to run with the bullocks which was an amazing, unexpected, if mildly terrifying, experience I wasn’t likely to repeat elsewhere soon. Experiencing Saddington and its nearby reservoir as well as Shearsby more than made up for bullish encounter through being charming locations to pass through. I was also quite excited to pass through Bruntingthorpe again, starting point for my Coronation day walk, and an interesting location in its own right too. There were a few other pretty villages as well, but certainly I can’t forget walking alongside the mighty, and mightily noisy, M1 motorway for a stretch, coming as it did shortly after I got slightly lost in a couple of fields and on the roads.

A perfect day out? Nah. Yet this was still a fascinating stretch of Leicestershire to hike which also happened to be the section of the Round which was as far away as it was possible to be from my home. As a result, despite having lived in Leicestershire for almost two decades, I was encountering villages, fields, woodlands and waterways which were new to my eyes. Almost certainly, if there is one something which keeps driving me on as I clock up the miles, it’s the chance to discover something new I’ve never seen or experienced before – which this route delivered in spades!

Number Two: Hiking the Grantham Canal (19 mile Route)

Discoveries, fresh experiences, perfect weather and a waterside route? Yeah, this walk had it all and more which is why it scores so highly. I simply adore a canal route, or even just a riverside one, but this easy to follow route stretching from the western fringes of Grantham itself to Hickling was a total winner on many levels. For one, it took place on one of 2023’s rare sunny days hiking I had. I believe this is one of only two videoed hikes this year where I had to wear sunglasses – which tells you something. There was naturally lots of waterfowl to be seen along the way, especially some nesting swans which was brilliant. Waterfowl are another passion of mine, and the chance to pass them by in their native habitat was enchanting. And I’ve not even mentioned the architectural surprises like all the wonderful old brick bridges you have to pass under if you follow this route – the sense of resonating with Britain’s industrial history was palpable at this moments.

Now, you might expect a canal side path to be repetitive, but it was actually surprisingly varied, despite whole route essentially just pounding the ground along a single track. Far from it! From well laid out tarmac to gravel tracks to springy grass, there was always a bit of variety underfoot. The surroundings too kept on changing from late spring hedgerow to fields in full crop, to passing alongside some pretty little villages. Quite simply, the countryside was just so green on the day I did this hike that it’s no surprise it’s lasted so long in my memory.

And that’s without mentioning the bridge I had to limbo under to keep alongside the river! Now that was a big surprise.

Overall, this was a good and lengthy hike too, which is certainly one more good reason to remember it. Nevertheless, it was also such easy walking as the route was never obscured or difficult to follow – something the second leg to Nottingham did suffer from a bit. Yes, for walking through the wonderful Leicestershire and Lincolnshire countryside in late spring/early summer, with a canal wending its way alongside me, I couldn’t have picked a better and more enjoyable route – and almost certainly one I quite fancy doing again!

Number One: Weavers’ Way – Cromer to Aylsham (17.5 mile route)

So, what could top all these experiences? One which combined all the elements I love in a days hiking – and if you’ve watched the video you can probably guess why I’ve chosen part of the Weavers’ Way.

This first stage of Norfolk’s Weavers’ way – my third long distance pathway of the year [2] was an amazing day out. Starting off at the coast in Cromer, and then passing along and past at least two stately homes, and on through the varied and wondrous late autumnal landscape of Norfolk, it was a brilliant days walking. Even with the ground being rather sodden underfoot, nothing stopped me from utterly enjoying this day. Now, I was especially enlivened on this walk by two visits from Mrs Llama on route to bring me snacks and supplies – something she has never done before.[3] Having a very friendly face pop up a couple of times over the five hour slot really brightened my day. But it’s not the only reason why I loved this walk more than any other.

Firstly, I was walking entirely alien pathways and locations – I walked a bit of Norfolk’s coastline last year, but I’d never trekked in land before. Norfolk has a more ancient feel to it than Leicestershire, which certainly intrigued me as I walked along. Secondly, the autumnal colours were incredible – I’d picked the week when they were at their height, and just before the winds and rains of winter arrived to turn them to monochrome mush. Check out the section (00:03:35) as I approach Felbrigg Hall for a really good example of this. Thirdly, while it wasn’t the longest walk of the year [4], it was plenty long enough and filled with exquisite variety.

Fourthly, when I went spectacularly wrong thanks to the National Trust’s building efforts, I was guided by the most helpful and generous farmer – despite having meandered onto their farm in error. A friendly local is always much appreciated – and that they were so patient with me, is something I’ll always treasure. Fifthly, the architecture along the way was amazing – from Saxon churches to stately homes, there was always something of interest to see alongside enjoying the stunning countryside. Sixthly, the weather – I was utterly blessed on this late November day with the kind of sunshine and temperatures which are rare in the English early winter. This helped transform what was a fun walk into a glorious stroll through nature.

Look, I could go on – but perfect conditions, brilliant views, a great and varied route – this was a fantastic day out and a clear winner for my favourite walk of the year![5] Let’s hope for more like this one next year!

So what do you think? What was your favourite walk I did last year – or that you did yourself? Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Anyway, here to 2024 and another year (and season) of Walking with Llama Paws. Wishing all my readers and viewers a happy, and peaceful, new year.

Endnotes

[1] Clarification: I walked close to a farm where there was clearly a shooting range…but it rather sounded like I was under fire for a couple of miles.

[2] And as yet incomplete as I ran out of time in Norfolk!

[3] And I expect from her comments afterwards, probably never again either.

[4] That was actually the next section of the Weavers’ Way.

[5] Obviously the six mile walk I did that week with Mrs Llama was a great day out too – she’s not much of a distance hiker, so being able to do that many miles with her for once was very special to me. It’s just not on film, as it was a more private, more personal event. But worthy of note!

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